Every September, I see the same reminders pop up: buy extra batteries, stock canned soup, check your smoke alarms, maybe print a family emergency plan if you are feeling especially organized. And while all of that matters, there is one home safety warning that gets skipped over in a shocking number of houses: families do not actually know how to shut off their utilities before an emergency turns a bad situation into a catastrophic one. If a gas line ruptures after a storm, a pipe bursts in a winter freeze, or floodwater reaches electrical outlets, those extra granola bars in the pantry will not help nearly as much as knowing exactly what valve, switch, or breaker to touch and when to leave it alone.

As someone juggling work, weeknight dinners, and the constant Midwest weather roulette of thunderstorms, ice, heat, and the occasional tornado siren, I understand why this gets overlooked. Utility shutoffs are not cute, not fun, and not something most of us want to think about after a long day. But if you are using National Preparedness Month to do one truly important thing for your household, start there. Then keep going, because there are several other critical home safety warnings American families routinely skip every September, and together they can make the difference between a manageable emergency and a life-changing one.

1. Learn how to shut off gas, water, and electricity before you need to

This is the big one, and honestly, it should be first on every family’s preparedness checklist. Every adult in the home should know where the main water shutoff is, where the electrical panel is, and where the gas meter shutoff valve is located. In many homes, the main water shutoff is in the basement near the front foundation wall, in a utility room, or in a crawl space. In warmer areas, it may be outside near the street or attached to an exterior wall. The electrical panel is often in a garage, basement, laundry room, or utility closet. The gas meter is typically outside.

Take 20 minutes this week and physically walk to each location. Do not just say, “I think it’s over there.” Label them if needed. A waterproof tag that says MAIN WATER SHUTOFF can save precious minutes during a burst pipe at 11:30 p.m. If you have natural gas, keep the correct shutoff wrench nearby, but use it only if authorities or your gas company instruct you to, or if there is a clear emergency such as a broken gas line and you can do so safely. Once gas is shut off, it should generally be turned back on by the utility company or a qualified professional.

At my house, we finally practiced this after a neighbor had a sump pump failure during a storm and then realized in the moment that nobody in the house knew which breaker controlled what. It sounds basic, but in a real emergency, basic is exactly what people forget.

2. Test every smoke alarm and replace alarms that are too old

Plenty of families change batteries once a year and assume they are covered. That is not enough. Smoke alarms should be tested monthly using the test button, and the entire unit should be replaced according to the manufacturer’s instructions, typically every 10 years. The manufacture date is usually printed on the back of the alarm. If yours says 2014, it is time.

You should have smoke alarms inside every bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level of the home, including the basement. In larger homes, that may mean 5 to 8 alarms, not just one in the hallway. If anyone in your household sleeps with white noise, a fan, closed doors, or hearing devices removed at night, interconnected alarms are especially important because when one sounds, they all sound.

A good replacement smoke alarm usually costs around $20 to $50, while combo smoke and carbon monoxide alarms often run $30 to $70. That is a small cost compared to losing even 2 minutes of early warning in a house fire.

3. Check carbon monoxide protection, especially before heating season

September is the perfect month to stop assuming your carbon monoxide setup is fine. Carbon monoxide is odorless and invisible, and it becomes a major concern as families start using furnaces, fireplaces, attached garages, and portable generators. At a minimum, install carbon monoxide alarms outside sleeping areas and on each level of the home. If your house has an attached garage, fuel-burning furnace, gas range, gas water heater, or fireplace, this is not optional.

Replace backup batteries if your units use them, test each alarm, and check expiration dates. Many CO alarms have a life span of 5 to 7 years. Also, schedule HVAC maintenance before the first really cold week. A basic furnace tune-up often costs $100 to $200 and can identify venting problems, cracked heat exchangers, or unsafe burner issues before your system runs nonstop in January.

I live in the Midwest, where the first chilly night makes everyone light a candle, switch on the furnace, and settle in. That seasonal shift is exactly why September is the month to get ahead of it.

4. Do not run generators, grills, or camp stoves anywhere near the house

This warning gets repeated after every major storm, yet families still improvise dangerously during outages. Portable generators should be used outdoors only, at least 20 feet from the home, away from doors, windows, soffit vents, and garages. Not in the garage with the door cracked. Not on a covered porch. Not under an open window. Carbon monoxide can build up fast and enter the house silently.

The same goes for charcoal grills, propane grills, camp stoves, and turkey fryers. They belong outside, far from siding, deck railings, dry leaves, and overhangs. Keep a 3-foot safety zone around any heat source. If you use extension cords with a generator, use heavy-duty outdoor-rated cords that are free of cuts and sized for the appliance load.

After big windstorms in our area, I always hear stories about people trying to make coffee in the garage or keep warm with camping gear indoors. I completely get the temptation, but these are the kinds of shortcuts that become headlines.

5. Store enough water, and know how to protect it if the supply is interrupted

Most people think emergency food first and water second, when really it should be the other way around. A practical baseline is 1 gallon of water per person per day for at least 3 days, though 7 to 14 days is far more realistic for many households. For a family of 4, that means 12 gallons minimum for 3 days, and ideally 28 to 56 gallons if you have the space.

Store water in food-grade containers, sealed commercially bottled water, or dedicated water bricks. Rotate stored water according to the container guidance. Also know whether your water heater holds 40 to 50 gallons that could serve as an emergency supply if the source is safe and uncontaminated. In storm zones, freeze warnings, or contamination events, families should also know whether they may need to boil water for 1 minute, or 3 minutes at elevations above 6,500 feet, before drinking.

Preparedness gets much less glamorous when you are carrying cases of water into the basement, but I have learned the hard way that running out of drinking water feels urgent much faster than running out of pasta.

6. Anchor furniture and televisions so they cannot tip over

This is one of the most overlooked family safety issues in everyday life, not just during disasters. Tall dressers, bookshelves, hutches, and flat-screen TVs can tip during earthquakes, tornado impacts, severe straight-line winds, or even normal kid activity. If you have children, pets, or older adults in the home, unsecured furniture is a serious hazard.

Use anti-tip brackets or wall straps secured into studs, not just drywall anchors unless the product is specifically designed and rated for your setup. A basic anti-tip kit can cost $10 to $25. Secure TVs with a wall mount or anti-tip tether, especially if they sit on dressers or media stands. Put heavy items on lower shelves and never encourage climbing by storing toys or remotes up high.

I know this one is easy to postpone because it falls into that “we’ll get to it eventually” category. But eventually has a way of turning into years, and this is a Saturday-morning project with a huge safety payoff.

7. Clean out dryer vents and inspect laundry fire risks

Almost every family cleans the lint screen, but far fewer clean the full vent line. Lint buildup in the dryer duct is a major fire risk. Pull the dryer out carefully and inspect the vent hose. If it is crushed, kinked, or made from flimsy foil-style material, replace it with rigid or semi-rigid metal duct where possible. Then clean the vent path from the dryer to the exterior exhaust hood.

A full dryer vent cleaning can be done with a brush kit for about $20 to $40, or professionally for roughly $100 to $200 depending on the length and complexity of the run. Also clean behind the machine, where lint and dust collect near cords and outlets. Never run the dryer when you are asleep or when no one is home, especially if the appliance is older or has had heating issues.

For busy households, laundry often becomes an all-day background task. I have absolutely tossed in one more load before dinner and moved on to a dozen other things. That is exactly why this area deserves more attention.

8. Review fire extinguisher placement and make sure they are usable

Owning one fire extinguisher in the back of a pantry does not count as a real plan. You should have appropriately rated extinguishers in key areas, especially the kitchen, garage, basement, and near workshop spaces. For many homes, a multipurpose ABC extinguisher is the right fit. Mount it where it is visible and easy to reach, not buried behind paint cans or paper towels.

Check the pressure gauge monthly to make sure it is in the green zone. Inspect for dents, rust, a broken tamper seal, or a clogged nozzle. Many extinguishers need replacement or professional servicing after use, even partial use. Everyone in the home should know the PASS method: Pull the pin, Aim at the base of the fire, Squeeze the handle, Sweep side to side.

One important note: extinguishers are for small, contained fires only. If the fire is spreading, producing thick smoke, or blocking your exit, get out and call 911. No property is worth gambling with your lungs or your life.

9. Update your emergency escape plan and actually practice it

Families love the idea of a home escape plan and hate the follow-through. A good plan includes 2 ways out of every bedroom and living area, a designated outdoor meeting spot, and a clear rule that once you are out, you stay out. If bedrooms are on a second floor, confirm that windows open fully, screens can be removed quickly, and escape ladders are accessible if you choose to keep them.

Practice both daytime and nighttime scenarios. Do one drill after dark when everyone is in pajamas and a little groggy. Time it if you want a reality check. The goal is not perfection. It is reducing hesitation. Kids should know the sound of the smoke alarm, understand how to crawl low under smoke if needed, and know exactly where to meet, whether that is the mailbox, the big maple tree, or the sidewalk across the street.

It feels awkward the first time, I promise. The last time I suggested practicing a drill, I got the same eye roll I get when I ask people to rinse their lunch containers before putting them in the sink. But after 5 minutes, everyone understood the point.

10. Photograph your home and update insurance details before disaster season proves you need them

This may not sound like a safety warning at first, but after a fire, tornado, burst pipe, or major theft, documentation directly affects how quickly a family recovers. Walk room by room with your phone and record video of furniture, electronics, appliances, tools, jewelry, and storage areas. Open drawers and closets. Capture serial numbers where practical. Back the files up to cloud storage or email them to yourself.

Then review your homeowners or renters insurance. Confirm deductibles, coverage limits, temporary housing coverage, sewer backup endorsements, and whether flood insurance is separate, because it usually is. Standard homeowners policies generally do not cover flooding from rising water. In many parts of the country, including places that do not think of themselves as flood-prone, that distinction matters a lot.

If a storm damages your home, having a 15-minute video inventory and current policy information can save days or weeks of stress. It is one of those deeply boring tasks that becomes incredibly valuable at the worst possible time.

11. Clear defensible space around the house and reduce storm debris hazards

Even if you do not live in a wildfire-heavy region, yard maintenance is a preparedness issue. Trim dead branches, remove leaves from gutters, and keep flammable materials away from the exterior of the house. Store propane tanks, firewood, and gasoline cans according to safety guidance and away from ignition sources. If you have overhanging limbs near the roof, chimney, or power line service drop, schedule trimming before storm season or before snow and ice add weight.

In many suburban neighborhoods, the more common risk is not wildfire but storm damage. A dead limb hanging over the driveway can come down during a thunderstorm with 60-mile-per-hour gusts. Clogged gutters can send water behind siding or into the basement. Patio furniture, planters, and umbrellas can become projectiles. Walk your property each September with a notepad and look up, down, and around.

I usually do this with coffee on a Saturday morning and end up spotting three things I have tuned out all summer. Familiarity makes hazards blend in. A deliberate walkaround helps you see them again.

12. Check medication, first aid, and backup needs for the people and pets in your home

Preparedness cannot stop at flashlights and batteries if someone in your household relies on daily medication, refrigerated insulin, mobility equipment, oxygen, hearing aid batteries, or pet supplies. Keep at least a several-day reserve of essential medications when legally and practically possible, and rotate them before expiration. Ask your pharmacy about refill timing, emergency refill procedures, and whether prescriptions can be transferred easily if you evacuate.

Your first aid kit should include more than a few cartoon bandages. A useful home kit usually contains adhesive bandages in multiple sizes, sterile gauze pads, roller bandages, medical tape, antiseptic wipes, antibiotic ointment, tweezers, scissors, disposable gloves, instant cold packs, a digital thermometer, pain relievers, and any household-specific items like an epinephrine auto-injector if prescribed. If you have pets, include 3 to 7 days of food, medications, vaccination records, and a leash or carrier ready to go.

In my experience, the most realistic emergency planning is the kind that starts with the people, routines, and prescriptions you already manage every week. That is what turns preparedness from a vague idea into a plan your family can actually use.